Memorable experience: The middle-aged man motioned with his hand. Follow me. As I left the knickknack-packed sidewalks of Dongtai Road — Shanghai’s answer to London’s Portobello Road outdoor antique market — I did wonder if this was the most prudent move. Although throughout my stay in this bustling city I’d always felt exceedingly safe, this invitation to enter a dark and crumbling row house did give me pause.
My concern was unwarranted. After climbing a wooden staircase so narrow it would have denied entrance
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