Italy

A Quick Tour Of Italy - Eastern Apulia

September 29th, 2007 at 10:49pm Under Italy+ Travel Articles

I love touring Italy so much that I am doing a series on both the well known and the rarely visited tourist attractions of Italy’s twenty regions. This short article explores sights in the eastern part of the Apulia region of southern Italy including some history, local food, and Apulia wine. Please join me on this quick tour.

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Italy: You’ll Wonder Why Columbus Left

September 29th, 2007 at 07:38am Under Italy

Genoa, if you ignore the debate amongst scholars, is the birthplace of Christopher Columbus. But after visiting the famed historic port, you might wonder why the explorer ever left.

Tricked out in all the wealth of the Middle Ages and Renaissance, it must have been stunning. Even a half-millennium after its heyday, the Italian port cuts an impressive figure.

This Italian city follows closely behind two of my other favorite cities, San Francisco and Barcelona. Like both, it has lovely hilly terrain and a seafaring tradition. Yet, for some reason, Genoa slips under the radar of many guidebooks. The books we used in two previous trips to Italy carry nary a mention of the city. Our last trip was centered in the Piedmont region around Turin and we decided to add Genoa and the Italian Riviera. I’m glad we did.

Though Genoa can’t elbow past Rome, Venice and Florence amid Italy’s must-see cities, it is a fabulous spot. The prices are reasonable, it is less crowded with tourists, museums abound and it offers fabulous cuisine, with an emphasis on seafood and the local specialty, pesto.

A stroll through the Medieval center peels away the centuries. The labyrinth of narrow streets lives in nearly perpetual shadow as 500-year-old buildings lean in until they almost meet. No street follows a straight line for long and it’s a challenge to keep a sense of direction. But getting lost is part of the fun. Every twist and turn reveals a surprise, from 500-year-old palaces and glorious churches to thoroughly modern Internet cafes and trendy little restaurants or the seedy red light district. There’s the occasional surprise of a mini-traffic jam as determined Italian drivers inch past each other in the impossibly narrow streets.

Genoa was an important trade center by the third century B.C. Its sailors have plied the world’s trade routes since the Phoenicians and Greeks. Genoa offered a jumping off spot for the Crusaders. And, it was a major player in European politics from the 13th through 16th centuries. Its merchants dumped their profits into stunning palaces lining the renamed Via Garibaldi. Back then, it was called the Via Aurea, or golden street, an appropriate name. Many of the 16th century palaces are now museums. And others have courtyards open to the public.

But the waterfront is what really makes Genoa work. A large portion is renovated with a boardwalk, slips for yachts, a galleon (which was actually built for Roman Polanski’s 1986 movie “Pirates”), restaurants, touristy shops and a fabulous aquarium and the Galata Museo del Mare (Sea Museum).

I lost most of an afternoon wandering the museum. If you’re a boat-in-a-bottle kind of guy or Patrick O’Brian fan, this place beats shore leave on the Barbary Coast with a pocket full of doubloons and a bottle of rum. It covers ships and sailors from the earliest vessels up to today. It has a complete reconstructed 17th-century Genovese galley, accompanied by a detailed profile of the men who powered these fast-moving ships with banks of oars. My wife loved the multimedia recreation of sea travel in the early part of the last century. Films contrast the crowded Atlantic crossing of America-bound migrants in steerage with the parties and dancing of flappers above. The museum’s glassed-in rooftop gives a panoramic view of the still-working port and city climbing up a mountainside. It’s also a great spot to watch the sun set over the Ligurian Sea.

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Ravenna Hosts Dante Festival in September

September 15th, 2007 at 12:22pm Under Italy

dante

Italofile has posted their “What’s On” list for September, and one of them looks interesting to me:

  • Ravenna is home to a Dante festival running throughout September, called Settembre Dantesco. Italofile notes that the festival’s programs are “geared towards fluent Italian speakers,” but as far as I’m concerned any time a town has a festival it’s a good time to be there. Even if it’s nothing you understand or it’s not even a topic that interests you, when a city hosts a festival it’s like seeing that city in its Sunday best. And if you can’t understand the lectures, you can still take in the scenery of Ravenna, which is delightful. More information about Settembre Dantesco is here.
  • Another note on Italofile says that Siena’s Duomo’s gorgeous mosaic-covered floor will be completely unveiled through October 27th. (While most of the floor is generally viewable, some parts are covered.) The only reference I can find on the Duomo’s website, however, is from such an unveiling in 2004. Perhaps they do this every year? If someone knows, or has reference to a mention of this year’s event, let me know.

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Spending Time (and Money) in Rome’s Fiumicino Airport

September 15th, 2007 at 12:15pm Under Italy

fiumicino2The vast majority of travelers in Italy arrive and depart via Rome’s busy Fiumicino Airport, more formally known as Leonardo da Vinci International Airport. Although Fiumicino’s been in the news recently for its baggage handler strikes, it’s going to remain Italy’s #1 international gateway for the forseeable future. So, rather than complaining about a long wait for your flight home (or a long layover, if you’re flying domestically), why not take the opportunity to explore Fiumicino’s more interesting shops?

Italy Travel Notes has published a couple of posts about the fun spots to check out at Fiumicino, and they’ve broken it down by the things to see in Area A and the things to see in Areas B & C. Area A is for flights inside Italy, so unless you’re doing some domestic air travel and waiting for a plane to Palermo or some place, it’s likely that you’ll be sticking to Area B (for EU flights) or Area C (all non-EU international flights).

Area A is home to a Zara store selling home accessories (evidently most of them sell clothing), a Bulgari shop (only for the weighty of wallet), a chocolatier called Venchi and a ritzy little wine bar. Areas B & C are where you’ll find a Ferrari store (where you can buy everything from shirts to bathrobes to luggage with the Ferrari logo, but no cars), a Calzedonia shop for your hosiery needs (Italians do seem overly fond of hosiery), Canestro shops (where you can pick up those last-minute Italian food treats to share with your office) and the Good Buy Roma duty-free shop.

If you have any Euro left over at the end of your Italian holiday, Rome’s Fiumicino Airport clearly has lots of ways to relieve you of that money before you fly home. And even if you don’t buy anything, wandering the shopping areas of an Italian airport is bound to be a more interesting way to spend your time than staring out the window.

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British Embassy and Consulates in Italy

September 15th, 2007 at 12:13pm Under Italy

Here is the contact information for the British Embassy and Consulates in Italy. While you hope to never need their services while you are traveling, it’s good to know they’re there if you do! The main website for the British Embassy and Consulates in Italy is here.

British Embassy in Rome
Via XX Settembre, 80a
I-00187 Rome RM
Tel: (0039) 06 4220 0001
Fax: (0039) 06 4220 2347
Opening Hours: Monday-Friday 09:00-17:00 (Sep-Jul), 08:00-14:00 (Aug) - Except on some UK and Italian public holidays

British Consulate General, Milan
Via San Paolo, 7
20121 Milano MI
Tel: (0039) 02 723001
Fax: (0039) 02 869 2405
Opening Hours: Monday-Friday 08:00-12:00 and 13:00-16:00

British Consulate, Florence
Lungarno Corsini, 2
50123 Florence, FI
Tel: (0039) 055 284133
Fax: (0039) 055 219112
Opening Hours: Monday-Friday 09:00-13:00, 14:00-17:00

British Consulte, Naples
Via dei Mille, 40
80121 Napoli NA
Tel: (0039) 081 423 8911
Fax: (0039) 081 422 434
Opening Hours: Monday-Friday 09:00-13:00, 14:00-17:00 (except August - 08:00-14:00)

British Honorary Consulate, Venice
Piazzale Donatori di Sangue, 2/5
30171 Venezia-Mestre VE
Tel: (0039) 041 505 5990
Fax: (0039) 041 950254
Opening Hours: Monday-Friday 10:00-13:00

British Honorary Consulate, Trieste
Via Roma, 15
34132 Trieste TS
Tel: (0039) 040 3478303
Fax: (0039) 040 3478311
Opening Hours: Tuesday 10:00-12:00, Friday 14:30-16:30

British Honorary Consulate, Cagliari
Viale Colombo, 160
I-09045 Quartu S. Elena CA
Tel: (0039) 070 828628 (consular enquiries)
Fax: (0039) 070 813412
Opening Hours: Tuesday and Thursday 09:00-12:30 (We fully appreciate that many people, especially those who have to come from other parts of Sardinia, may have difficulty in reaching us during normal opening hours. This is not a problem and we ask you to kindly phone or e-mail us in order to arrange an appointment at a mutually convenient time.)

British Honorary Consulate, Bari
Via Dalmazia, 127
70121 Bari BA
Tel: (0039) 080 554 3668
Fax: (0039) 080 554 2977
Opening Hours: Monday-Friday 09:00-17:00

British Honorary Consulate, Catania
Via Nicola Coviello, 27
95128 Catania
Tel/Fax: (0039) 095 716 7336
Opening Hours: Tuesdays and Thursdays 10:00-12:30

British Honorary Consulate, Palermo
S. Tagliavia & Co.
Via Cavour 117
90133 Palermo PA
Tel: (0039) 091 582533
Fax: (0039) 091 584240
Opening Hours: Thursday 09:30-12:30

British Honorary Consulate, Genoa
Piazza G Verdi 6/A
16121 Genova GE
Tel: (0039) 010 5740071
Fax: (0039) 010 5304096
Opening Hours: Monday-Wednesday 09:30-12:30, Thursday 12:30-15:30

British Embassy to the Holy See (Vatican)
Via XX Settembre 80A
00187 - Rome, Italy
Tel: (+39) 06.4220.4000 (switchboard)
Fax: (+39) 06.4220.4205
Opening Hours: Monday-Friday 09:00-17:00, except some UK and Italian public holidays

There are more embassies and consulates in Italy to read about, too.

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Like Venice, Taormina to Employ Decorum Police

September 15th, 2007 at 12:10pm Under Italy

I’m terribly fond of the decorum police in Venice (I must be, having written about them enough), partly because I love the idea of these overly polite and linguistically talented pretty young women patrolling St. Mark’s Square for bare-chested tourists sitting down in the piazza for a picnic, and partly because I love the idea that if they’re disobeyed they can go from kind to calling in la polizia before you can bat an eyelash.

Which is why I find it excellent that Taormina, the top tourist resort in Sicily, is following Venice’s example. They’ll be patrolling the city’s sights not just for bare-chested tourists, but also for people littering, and the worst offenders may find themselves with a €500 fine. This is good news, in my opinion, because littering is taken far too lightly in too much of the world (so this is a step in the right direction), and because I think some tourists need to learn a bit of respect. If there can’t be a tourist’s handbook which is mandated reading for anyone who travels outside their own city, then maybe hitting folks where it hurts - in their wallets - might do the trick.

Now, here’s the serious note - I think that when we travel we have an obligation to respect the cultures of the countries we visit. We may not agree with them, but insofar as foreign cultures don’t harm anyone or anything, it seems the right thing to do is to honor them. For instance, I may disagree personally with the reasons behind wearing a head scarf, but if I were to travel to a place where women wore head scarves I’d more than likely wear one myself. Of course, one of the reasons to honor such a custom is so that you don’t stand out like the tourist you are - but another reason, the more personal one, is to pay your respects to the place that is hosting you as an outsider.

While there aren’t customs like the wearing of head scarves to worry about in Italy, there are some customs with regard to attire which should be honored, especially including those regarding proper dress to enter churches and other holy sites. Even if you think you can “get away with it,” try to respect the wishes of the people for whom those buildings are, indeed, holy. You might not think it’s sacrilege to bear your knees in a cathedral, but if the people who attend that cathedral or practice that religion do, that’s all that counts. Besides, it takes no time at all to think ahead just enough to know whether you’ll be visiting a church on any given day, in which case you bring along a long-sleeved shirt and wear long pants. Is that really asking too much?

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I Love Touring Italy - Eastern Sicily

September 13th, 2007 at 07:36pm Under Italy

If you are looking for a European tourist destination, consider the island of Sicily, a region of southern Italy. Depending on your interests, this beautiful area can be an ideal vacation spot. You can get classic Italian food, and wash it down with fine local wine. And parts of Sicily haven’t yet been discovered by tourists. This article presents eastern Sicily. A companion article presents western Sicily. Another companion article presents Sicily’s capital, Palermo.

We’ll start our Sicilian virtual tour in the northeast corner at Messina on the Ionian coast and work our way south to Siracusa. The only time that we’ll leave the seacoast area is to visit Mt. Etna.

Messina is Sicily’s third largest city with a population of about one quarter of a million. It was founded by the Greeks in the Eighth Century B.C. and like many parts of Italy changed often hands over the centuries. Messina has been accused of being the port of entry for the Black Plague that decimated Europe during the Middle Ages. In the mid-Sixteenth Century St. Ignatius founded the world’s first Jesuit College, which later became part of the University of Messina.

An earthquake and the ensuing tsunami almost annihilated Messina in 1908. Even today the city has no tall buildings. You’ll want to see the Norman Duomo (Cathedral) initially constructed at the end of the Twelfth Century. Because of a fire during World War Two this magnificent building was rebuilt twice in the past century. Be sure not to miss the bell tower and its impressive mechanical clock. Near the Duomo is the Palazzo Calapaj (Calapaj Palace), which survived the earthquake. There is a Sixteenth Century lighthouse and several fountains worth visiting. Engineers and others may want to see the Pylon (actually two of them) which, when built in 1957, were the tallest pylons in the world. While they are no longer in use, the Pylon is classified as a historical monument.

The walled village of Castelmola with its ancient streets and spectacular view is only a few miles from the coast. Don’t miss it. Go to the ruins of the Thirteenth Century Castello Normanno (Norman Castle). It is over than a kilometer above sea level and to get there you must climb the path from the parking lot below. Actually there are two paths with two different views and if you can you really should explore both, one up and one down the mountain. What’s to see when you get to the top “” the city of Taormina and the Ionian Sea to the east, the Tyrrhenian Sea to the north, and Mount Etna to the west. Castelmola also boasts a Cathedral and several old churches worth visiting.

Unlike Castelmola which has few non-Sicilian sightseers, the town of Taormina has been discovered by tourists. It too has a beautiful view. The Taormina Mare beach is accessible from the town by a funivia (gondola) that you must take if only for the view.

The hillside Teatro Greco (Greek Theater) was built in the Third Century B.C. and rebuilt by the Romans several centuries later. It is still in active use, especially during the summer. The only thing that matches its magnificent acoustics is, you guessed it, the spectacular view. Taormina was home to two famous writers, D. H. Lawrence and Truman Capote. If your budget permits, Taormina boasts two top-of-the-line hotels, the Grand Hotel Timeo and Villa Flora and the San Domenico Palace.

Mount Etna is the largest and highest volcano in Europe. It is still active, spouting about a dozen times since 1971. It has destroyed cable car stations several times. Depending on the weather report, you may be able to climb part of this mountain. You may prefer to take the Circumetnea railroad, which circles most of the volcano base. The whole trip takes about five hours. Unless…

The Hotel Villa Paradiso Dell’Etna has quite a checkered history. It started as a bohemian hangout in the 1920s. Then during World War II the German General Rommel took it over. The Allies turned it into a military hospital. After very extensive renovations it is now a pricey hotel.

The city of Acireale, population about fifty thousand, is about halfway down the Ionian coast of eastern Sicily. The very, very rocky shoreline is called the Riviera dei Ciclopi (The Cyclops Riviera). According to Homer’s The Odyssey, the Cyclops Polyphemus, enraged at being blinded, hurled boulders at Ulysses. Be that as it may, the swimming is fine and tourists are relatively few, except perhaps at Carnival time before Lent. You’ll want to see the public gardens, Villa Belvedere, and the Baroque Duomo (Cathedral). Catania with a population of slightly over three hundred thousand is Sicily’s second largest city. Being more or less at the foot of Mount Etna has its good and bad points. Its volcanic soil is great for agriculture, especially for wine. On the negative side, the city has often been severely damaged by earthquakes and lava. Over the centuries Catania has been buried in lava seven times. In the local version of making lemonade when life gives you lemons, many of Catania’s buildings are constructed from lava.

Catania’s University, founded in 1434, was the first Sicilian University and is said by some to be the best. During the 1980s and 1990s the city was known for its youth music culture. Might this have something to do with the fact that it was home to the early Nineteenth Century Opera composer Vincenzo Bellini? The Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square) is home to an elephant carved out of lava, as well as the Catedrale di Sant’Agata (St. Agatha Cathedral) in which Bellini is buried.

We finish our tour of eastern Sicily with a quick look at the city of Siracusa (Syracuse), founded by Greek colonists more than twenty seven hundred years ago. This city was formerly stronger than Athens whom it defeated in a major naval battle around 400 B. C. About two hundred years later the Romans conquered Syracuse. All that’s left of the naval yards are blocks of stone but there are plenty of other sights to see. We’ll first look at its old time buildings.

The Teatro Greco (Greek Theater) was built for 15,000 spectators and is the venue for Greek tragedies in May and June. It is the best preserved Ancient Greek theater. You can compare and contrast it to the Anfiteatro Romano (Roman Amphitheater), which is also in great shape. It may be hard to believe but some seats still have their owners’ names on them. Make sure to see the Museo del Papiro (Papyrus Museum) devoted to paper’s antecedent. You won’t want to miss the Museo Archeologico (Archeological Museum) with its treasures from the mid-Bronze age to classic Greek times. There are literally dozens of churches and palaces of historical, artistic, and architectural interest in mainland Siracusa and the neighboring Ortygia Island, which is also known as the Città Vecchia (Old City).

A major island attraction is the Duomo whose site has served for worship over the millennia, first to local deities, then to the Greek goddess Athena, and finally as a Christian cathedral integrating the colossal Greek columns. Spend some time in the surrounding Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square). You can compare this Piazza to the nearby Piazza Archimede with its baroque fountain.

What about food? A Greek poet from the Sicilian city of Gela wrote Gastronomia, an ode to dining in Sicily, well over two thousand years ago. And in some ways things have only gotten better over the centuries as foreign products such as tomatoes made their way to Sicily. Of course some things have changed. Alas, the snows of Mount Etna are no longer transformed into Sicilian ices. Are they as exquisite as they were in the good old days? I can’t answer that question, but Sicilian ices are still famous. And many will be happy to know that Sicily ranks only behind the neighboring of Sardinia for organic food. According to legend Sicily invented the meatball; in any case spaghetti and meatballs are undoubtedly more American than Sicilian. Certified food products include olives, olive oil, cheese, tomatoes, oranges, table grapes (I prefer them fermented), and pears.

Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Spaghetti al nero di Seppia (Spaghetti with black Squid Sauce). Then try Sarde a Beccafico (Sardines stuffed with Cheese, Garlic, Parsley, and Capers). For dessert indulge yourself with Paste di Mandorla (Almond Cakes). Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We conclude with an overview of the wines of Sicily. Sicily is number one among all 20 Italian regions in acreage devoted to wine grapes and in total annual wine production. If Sicily were an independent country, it would be the world’s seventh largest wine producer. The following statistic may surprise some people: Somewhat over half of Sicilian wine is red. Sicily produces nineteen DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. Only about 2% of Sicilian wine carries this sometimes prestigious classification. But many Sicilian wines that don’t carry the DOC classification are excellent.

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How to Reach Italy

July 19th, 2007 at 06:36am Under Italy

The easiest way to get to Italy from Britain is to fly; and the prices of the cheapest tickets can even be cheaper than those for the long train journey. Deals change all the time, and prices depend on where you want to fly to and often on how far in advance you can book. The majority of flights go to Milan and Rome, with Bologna, Pisa, Naples, Turin and Venice in the second tier; frequent onward connections are possible from these gateway cities to smaller regional airports. Costs broadly reflect the distance and popularity of the place you’re travelling to - flights to Milan, for instance, can be a great deal cheaper than those to Palermo

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Reaching Italy from Ireland

Both Aer Lingus and Alitalia have direct flights from Dublin to Milan daily, from where connections to regional airports are frequent; flights to Rome are less often, usually around three times a week. It’s possible to find deals for around IRÂŁ250 if you book a long time in advance, but prices are usually significantly higher (IRÂŁ300-450) and unless you’re in a hurry it’s likely to make more sense to pick up an inexpensive flight to London, Brussels or Paris especially if you are heading for the south of Italy.

There are many daily flights from Dublin to London, operated by Ryanair, Aer Lingus and British Midland: the cheapest is Ryanair - which also flies from Kerry, Cork and Knock - starting at around IRÂŁ60 for a return to Stansted (sometimes as low as ÂŁIR30), though the cost of the journey across London, added to Britain’s high airport taxes, may in fact make the total as much as Aer Lingus or British Midland fares straight to Italy. Avoiding these costs, Virgin Express now flies from Shannon to Brussels twice a day and budget deals can be found on Ryanair from Dublin to Brussels or Paris, from where connections to the major Italian airports are frequent.

From Belfast , British Airways and British Midland fly to Heathrow, but the cheapest options are the British European flights to Gatwick and Stansted, starting at around ÂŁ60 return, though prices depend very much on availability. For the best youth/student deals from either city, contact Usit.

Reaching Italy from USA and Canada

You can fly to Italy direct from a number of US and Canadian cities: the main points of entry are Rome and Milan, although there are plenty of connecting flights on to other Italian cities from those two gateways. Prices are quite competitive, making Italy a feasible entry-point for Europe as a whole. Many airlines and agents also offer “open-jaw” tickets, enabling you to fly into one Italian city and out from another, travelling overland in between. Another good option is to travel via elsewhere in Europe (particularly Britain or Germany), since there’s a broad range of well-priced flights from all over North America. A Eurail pass may be a useful option if Italy is part of a longer European trip, since you can use it to get from any part of Europe to Italy.

Reaching Italy from Australia and New Zealand

There are no direct flights to Italy from Australia or New Zealand. All flights require either a transfer or stopover en route - often a welcome break as flying time is upwards of 21 hours. Several airlines fly to both Milan and Rome via an Asian or European city. Fares are highest between mid-May and August and at Christmas; low season is October to mid-November and mid-January to February; while the rest of the year is classed as shoulder season. Tickets purchased direct from the airlines tend to be expensive; travel agents generally offer much better deals, and have the latest information on special offers and stopovers. They can often also help with accommodation packages, tours and car rental, as well as organizing your visa and travel insurance. It’s also worth checking out Web sites like www.travel.com.au and www.sydneytravel.com for discounted fares.

If you’re planning to visit Italy as part of a wider world trip, then Round-the-World tickets offer greater flexibility and are better value than a standard return flight. There are numerous airline combinations to choose from; for example, a straightforward ticket (no backtracking) from Sydney or Auckland to Honolulu, then Vancouver, London, Rome/Milan, Bangkok, Singapore and back home, starts at A$2099/NZ$2399. However, more comprehensive and flexible routes are offered by “One World” and “Star Alliance” allowing you to take in other destinations in the USA, Canada, Europe, Asia as well as South America and Africa; prices are mileage-based from A$/NZ$2700, for a max of 29,000 miles up to A$/NZ$3700 for 39,000 miles.

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Italy About climate and When To Travel Italy

July 19th, 2007 at 06:35am Under Italy

Italy’s climate is one of the most hospitable in the world, with a general pattern of warm, dry summers and mild winters. There are, however, marked regional variations, ranging from the more temperate northern part of the country to the firmly Mediterranean south. Summers are hot and dry along the coastal areas, especially as you move south, cool in the major mountain areas - the Alps and Apennines. Winters are mild in the south of the country, Rome and below, but in the north they can be at least as cold as anywhere in the northern hemisphere, sometimes worse, especially across the plains of Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna, which can be very inhospitable indeed in January.

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As for when to go , if you’re planning to visit fairly touristed areas, especially beach resorts, avoid July and August, when the weather can be too hot and the crowds at their most congested. August is when the Italians go on holiday so expect the crush to be especially bad in the resorts and the scene in the major historic cities - Rome, Florence, Venice - to be slightly artificial as the only people around are fellow tourists. The nicest time to visit, in terms of the weather and lack of crowds, is April to late June, or September and October. If you’re planning to swim, however, bear in mind that only the south of the country may be warm enough outside the May to September period.

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Where To Go in Italy

July 19th, 2007 at 06:34am Under Italy

The north is “discovered” Italy. The regions of Piemonte and Lombardy , in the northwest, make up the richest and most cosmopolitan part of the country, and the two main centres, Turin and Milan, are its wealthiest large cities. In their southern reaches, these regions are flat and scenically dull, especially Lombardy, but in the north the presence of the Alps shapes the character of each: skiing and hiking are prime activities, and the lakes and mountains of Lombardy are time-honoured tourist territory. Liguria , the small coastal province to the south, has long been known as the “Italian Riviera” and is accordingly crowded with sun-seeking holiday-makers for much of the summer season. Nonetheless it’s a beautiful stretch of coast, and its capital, Genoa, is a bustling port with a long seafaring tradition.

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Much of the most dramatic mountain scenery lies within the smaller northern regions. In the far northwest, the tiny bilingual region of Valle d’Aosta is home to some of the country’s most frequented ski resorts, and is bordered by the tallest of the Alps - the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. Moving east, Trentino-Alto Adige , another bilingual region, and one in which the national boundary is especially blurred, marks the beginning of the Dolomites mountain range, where Italy’s largest national park, the Stelvio, lies amid some of the country’s most memorable landscapes.

The Dolomites stretch into the northeastern regions of the Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia . However here the main focus of interest is, of course, Venice; a unique city, and every bit as beautiful as its reputation would suggest (although this means you won’t be alone in appreciating it). If the crowds are too much, there’s also the arc of historic towns outside the city - Verona, Padua and Vicenza, all centres of interest in their own right, although rather overshadowed by their illustrious neighbour. To the south, the region of Emilia-Romagna has been at the heart of Italy’s postwar industrial boom and has a standard of living on a par with Piemonte and Lombardy, although it’s also a traditional stronghold of the Italian Left. Its coast is popular among Italians, and Rimini is about Italy’s brashest, tackiest (and trendiest) seaside resort, with a high reputation on the clubbing scene. You may do better to ignore the beaches altogether, however, and concentrate on the ancient centres of Ravenna, Ferrara, Parma and the regional capital of Bologna, one of Italy’s liveliest, most historic but least appreciated cities.

Central Italy
represents perhaps the most commonly perceived image of the country, and Tuscany , with its classic rolling countryside and the art-packed towns of Florence, Pisa and Siena, to name only the three best-known centres, is one of its most visited regions. Neighbouring Umbria is similar in all but its tourist numbers, though it gets busier every year, as visitors flock into towns such as Perugia, Spoleto and Assisi. Further east still, Marche may in time go the same way, but for the moment is comparatively untouched, its highlights being the ancient towns of Urbino and Áscoli Piceno. South of Marche, the hills begin to pucker into mountains in the twin regions of Abruzzo and Molise , Italy’s first really remote area if you’re travelling north to south, centring on the country’s highest peak - the Gran Sasso d’Italia. Molise, particularly, is a taster of the south, as is Lazio to the west, in part a poor and sometimes desolate region whose often rugged landscapes contrast with the more manicured beauty of the other central regions. Lazio’s real focal point, though, is Rome , Italy’s capital and the one city in the country which owes allegiance neither to the north or south, its people proudly aloof from the rest of the country’s squabbles. Rome is a tremendous city quite unlike any other, and in terms of historical sights outstrips everywhere else in the country by a long way.

The south proper begins south of Rome, with the region of Campania , which is as far as many tourists get. Naples is a petulant, unforgettable city, the spiritual heart of the Italian south, and on hand nearby are some of Italy’s finest ancient sites in Pompeii and Herculaneum, not to mention the country’s most spectacular stretch of coast around Amalfi. Basilicata and Calabria , which make up the instep and toe of Italy’s boot, are harder territory but still rewarding, the emphasis less on art, more on the landscape and quiet, unspoilt coastlines. Puglia , also in the “heel” of Italy, has underrated pleasures, notably the landscape of its Gargano peninsula, the souk-like quality of its capital Bari, and the Baroque glories of Lecce in the far south. As regards Sicily , the island is really a law unto itself, a wide mixture of attractions ranging from some of the finest preserved Hellenistic treasures in Europe, to a couple of Italy’s fanciest beach resorts in Taormina and CefalĂš, not to mention some gorgeous upland scenery. Come this far south and you’re closer to Africa than Milan, and it shows, in the climate, the architecture and the cooking - with couscous featuring on many menus in the west of the island. Sardinia , too, feels far removed from the Italian mainland, especially in its relatively undiscovered interior, although you may be content to explore its fine beaches, which are among Italy’s best.

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I Love Touring Italy - Latium West Of Rome

July 5th, 2007 at 03:42pm Under Italy

If you are looking for a European tourist destination, consider the Latium region of central western Italy on the Tyrrhenian Sea. Latium, also known as Laszio, is the region that includes Italy’s capital Rome, the Eternal City. Because there are so many articles describing the multiple pleasures of Rome, we are going to write about the lesser-known attractions of Latium. This article focuses on Latium west of Rome. A companion article describes Latium east of Rome.

We’ll start our tour at Cerveteri about 25 miles (40 kilometers) northwest of Rome. We’ll head along the sea northwest past Rome’s port, Civitvecchia, and stop at Tarquinia. Then we’ll travel inland (northeast) to Tuscania, Viterbo, Bagnaia, and then southeast to the village of Caprarola. We then head almost directly north to finish our tour at Bomarzo not far from the Umbrian border. (It might be a bit shorter to go from Bagnaia to Bomarzo and then to Caprarola but as you will see, we have our reasons for following the first itinerary.) Before we start this tour we will introduce a onetime major player, the Etruscans.

The Etruscans were a people who dominated large parts of Italy including Latium from an unknown prehistoric period up until the Roman Empire. We don’t know much about their origins, language, culture, or their way of life. Much of what we do know about this once powerful people can be seen on our tours of Latium. By the way, one of the most famous books about the Etruscans, Sketches of Etruscan Places and other Italian Essays (1932), was written by the British Author D. H. Lawrence, better known for another work, Lady Chatterly’s Lover.

Cerveteri, population about thirty thousand, was once the Etruscan city of Caere. UNESCO has classified Cerveteri as a World Heritage Site because of its Etruscan tombs. It is the largest ancient necropolis in the Mediterranean area. These tombs, and there are over a thousand of them, date from the Ninth Century B.C. to the Third Century B. C. Other local sights worth seeing include the Rocca castle, the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore and the Sixteenth Century Palazzo Ruspoli, not to be confused with a Palace of the same name in Florence. The nearby burg of Ceri is at the top of a fortified plateau. Its main attraction is the Romanesque Church of the Madonna of Ceri, built on a site originally dedicated to the worship of the goddess Vesta. In 1980 during renovations, Twelfth Century frescos of Biblical scenes were uncovered.

Tarquinia, population about sixteen thousand, is the site of about six thousand Etruscan tombs, some of which are decorated by wall paintings. The National Museum housed in the Fifteenth Century Palazzo Vitelleschi is known for its archeological contents. Tarquinia is home to a cathedral, several churches including two from the Twelfth Century (San Martino and St. John the Baptist), the Palazzo dei Priori, and several medieval towers.

Tuscania, population somewhat under eight thousand, was founded almost three thousand years ago but the area itself has been populated for perhaps eight or ten thousand years. Unfortunately its medieval city walls were largely destroyed in 1971 earthquake but they have been repaired and the interior is nicely landscaped. Like its neighbors, Tuscania is the site of many Etruscan tombs including the “Tomb of the Queen”, a series of labryinths with about thirty tunnels. If you are like me, you prefer seeing other sights. Tuscania will not disappoint you. For example, there are several churches of great architectural interest and palaces aplenty. And you can visit the National Archeological Museum, but many of the displays are tomb-related.

Viterbo was once the favorite residence of the popes. Its historic old center is among the best preserved towns of central Italy. Make sure to see the Palazzo dei Papi (Papal Palace) and the Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo, built by the Lombards over an Etruscan Temple dedicated to Hercules. This building also served as a Papal residence. Pope John XXI died here in 1277 when the ceiling collapsed as he was sleeping. The Plaza di San Lorenzo contains several other buildings of interest. The medieval district of San Pellegrino is quite well preserved and definitely worth visiting. Viterbo boasts a spa with a huge limestone pool of very hot water. Its volcanic mud is highly recommended for those who like that sort of thing. I am told that the Enoteca La Torre has an extensive wine list. The Tre Re restaurant has been a fixture of Viterbo’s old town since 1622.

The nearby village of Bagnaia was the personal fiefdom of the bishops of Viterbo for centuries. It is best known for its magnificent Sixteenth Century water gardens, Villa Lante. There are two sets of buildings, built for two bishops, one of whom was known for living simply. Highlights include a Moorish fountain, a boxtree maze, and two casinos.

The nearby village of Caprarola is the site of the Sixteenth Century Farnese Palace. This Palace was built for Cardinal Alessandro II Farnese, nephew of Pope Paul III, within ten years of the Villa Lante. The two sites were built by the same architect, but in a very different style. Here you go to see the palace, although its park is nothing to sneer at. In fact, in many parts of the world, the Farnese Palace park would merit a visit on its own. Our suggestion, see the Villa Lante and the Farnese Palace and compare. One thing is certain, the Sixteenth Century Italian upper class sure knew how to live.

You probably haven’t seen anything like Bomarzo. The village’s main attraction is yet another Sixteenth Century garden, alternately known as Bosco Sacro (Sacred Grove) and Bosco di Mostri (Monster’s Grove). It was built by a hunchbacked patron of the arts to honor his deceased wife. Some say that she died of heart failure after seeing the park. For centuries this park was neglected but now has been restored. The dozens of monster statues including Hanging House, the Dragon, the Ogre, and the Etruscan Bench with its inscription “You who travel the world, in search of great and beautiful wonders, come here, where there are horrible faces, elephants, lions, bear and dragons” seem strewn about aimlessly. This is probably as good a place as any to end your tour of western Latium.

What about food? Latium cuisine is one of abundance, perhaps in part because of the volcanic soil. The best cuts of meat were reserved for the rich and the poor had to make do with the rest, including feet, heart, kidneys, tongue, and tripe. Let’s not forget the pasta, said to be among the best in Italy. Fettuccine Alfredo comes from this region. Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Carciofi alla Guidea (Deep fried Artichokes). Then try Porchetta (Roast Suckling Pig). For dessert indulge yourself with Ciambella (Pastry with Sweetened Grapes and Carmelized Chestnuts). Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We’ll conclude this article with a quick look at Latium wine. More than four out of five bottles produced here are white. There are twenty five DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine, twenty of them white. However, only about 6% of Latium wine is so classified. Frankly, the region is not known for its wine. It once was; in the distant past Falernum, a Latium red was the hit of Ancient Rome. Who knows, perhaps one day the region will regain its former glory when it comes to wine. In the meantime, there is lots to see and lots to eat. And plenty of fine Italian wines are available. North of Latium is Umbria, and north of Umbria is Tuscany. Cantina Colacicchi’s Torre Ercolana is a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend from Latium that comes highly recommended but I have yet to taste it.

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Been There, Siena That

July 3rd, 2007 at 08:18pm Under Italy

Three years ago when a certain American President retained control of the White House after a less than stellar first go at it (you may have heard of him), I made a promise to myself. You see, I wasn’t what you would call “satisfied” with the results of that election. However, I’m not the type of person to take to the streets in protest (it was a cold winter and the streets can be dangerous). So I decided to protest my way: I would leave the country…once every year for the next four years. I figured everyone won: I got to see new and adventurous places. And no one else really mattered.

The first year I went to Scotland. It was my first intercontinental trip, and I only drove into oncoming traffic once. It was a roaring success. After navigating myself from the small northern town of Ballater all the way to Edinburgh and back in one day, I considered myself a seasoned foreign traveler. I’ve always set the bar for success rather low.

My second year, I ran out of money or time or maybe both. After futile attempts to pay my way to Fiji using $500, a Blockbuster gift card, and my wit, I settled on Montreal. I gave myself a pass on this because technically Montreal resides in a foreign country. Besides, I have learned that it is never good to be hard on oneself, especially when one is giving it their best shot, even if that best shot only lands you in Canada.

I resolved then (re-resolved, really) to not let myself down this year. So this Saturday I leave for Siena, Italy. Clearly, I will have much to write upon my return. In fact, I have a distinct picture of what Italy will be like. And taking a cue from a certain world leader, I will end my pre-trip post with some ignorant observations about some things about which I know nothing. Call it cultural stereotyping, call it racial profiling, call it my best plan yet. Here are some uneducated expectations:

1. I will eat pasta and drink wine. Every morning.

2. I will meet a beautiful, dark-haired woman named Maria. She will speak little English and giggle at my big American hands. My girlfriend will hate her.

3. I will eat pasta and drink wine. Every night.

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Rome And Venice

July 3rd, 2007 at 06:41pm Under Italy

Where does one begin to start when discussing Italy. Well, if you intend to travel there, Rome and Venice are good places to start.

Rome

Perhaps you’ve heard of it? It goes without saying that Rome has a rather prominent past. Lets see, in Rome you will find…[deep breath]…the Vatican, Coliseum, Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Church of Saint Agnese, Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps and a guy name Allassandro. Just making sure you’re paying attention. Indeed, Rome is filthy with historically significant attractions. It seems you can’t turn around without bumping into something an Emperor built, captured or destroyed. For those willing to risk potential wrath, there are also the new Divinci Code tours, which take you to the locations found in the book.

In all serious, Rome is a city you should visit at least once in your life. No article could ever do it justice, so I’ll just stop here.

Venice

I fondly refer to Venice as the floating city even though it is apparently sinking. If you’ve seen Venice is movies or televisions shows, the depictions are accurate. Piazza San Marco looks exactly the same, birds and all. The Grande Canal is, well, a grand canal with incredible houses lining it and boats putting up down this water way. Built on mudflats in a lagoon, the city doesn’t really have much room to grow. It just seems paralyzed in time.

Once you’ve conquered the tourist attractions, it will be time to get serious about Venice. The best way to do this is stand in front of your hotel or hostel, determine which direction the tourist attractions lie and start walking in the opposite direction. While you may feel like you’re driving the wrong way on a freeway for a few minutes, you’ll eventually start getting into real Venice.

An entirely different side of Venice will appear and you’ll love it. You’ll find little cafes with locals happy to talk to you [and non-tourist prices]. In fact, the Venetians will tend to hold you in high regard since you’re a tourist who is bypassing the tourist areas. This, of course, will logically lead to a whirl of introductions to this nephew, that son of a brother and so on. Next thing you know, you’ll be complaining about Italian politicians and how things used to be better in the past.

While Rome and Venice are excellent travel destinations, you can’t really go wrong in Italy. For the adventurous, set your itinerary with the old map on a wall and dart technique.

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Backpacking In Siena, Italy

July 3rd, 2007 at 06:23pm Under Italy

Ah, the glamour of backpacking through Europe. Of course, the glamour comes with a price as I found in Siena, Italy.

Siena

Siena is located an hour or so outside of Florence, Italy. My handy dandy guidebook suggested it was a side trip that just had to be made. A medieval structure located behind protective walls on the top of a hill. The central area was generally closed off to cars and it was a taste of true Italy. Who was I to argue?

As I sat on the train, I check my backpack for any excess weight. I had already discarded or sent home unnecessary items and was feeling pretty light on my feet. Next thing I knew, the train had stopped and I was standing on flat road next to a rolling hill covered in trees and homes. Siena proper was at the top.

The thing about rolling hills with lots of foliage is they are simply evil. You can never get a grasp on how far it is to the top. You keep thinking the top appears to be a few hundred feet in front of you until you reach it. Then you discover it is just a dip before another upward section. The hill up to Siena is just such a rolling hill. Throw in a road that twists all over the hill like a drunken sailor on leave, and you’ll never scoff at a moped again.

Getting in touch with my inner mule, I began to climb and tame the great beast. As I trudged along, I thought of all the great people that must of walked up the same hill throughout history. As I stood in the shade panting, I thought all of those great people probably hitched a ride instead of walking like me.

After thirty-five minutes or so, I was seriously starting to think about hitching a ride. Of course, this would mean admitting defeat. The battle between my genetic male stubbornness and “this sucks” attitude was intense. Like a mule, I kept going. Five bends, three dips that I could have sworn were the top.

Just as I was giving in…a wall. A really big wall. I passed it and suddenly was in a large parking lot area with tourist buses. Hands on knees, shirt soaking, I tried to maintain my dignity as the tourist looked at me like I was insane. Did that moron walk up here? One even took a picture!

After composing myself…err, getting my breath back, I booked a room in a little hotel. The young lady working the desk seemed hesitant, but I made some comment about it being a long way up from the valley. She started giggling and I had the room.

I showered and went looking for trouble. Well, trouble that was on a flat surface. In the town centre, I stumbled upon a small café selling Mexican beer. Being from San Diego, this was nirvana. My inner mule was quickly appeased and the hill of death forgotten.

Reflecting on my climb from a historical perspective, I learned a good lesson. It is far better to be behind the wall than trying to attack it!

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Italy’s Must See Art And Architecture

July 3rd, 2007 at 06:04pm Under Italy

Every year millions of visitors trek through Italy in search of ancient culture, great food, art, architecture, and more. The allure is immediate even to those who have never been.

There is more art and architecture to see in Italy than one person could possibly experience in a lifetime. Rome, Florence, and Venice alone offer an unending array of design excursions. Highlighted here are some of the must see designs of both ancient and modern Italy. Talk a trip, bring a sketch book, and see the gorgeous art and design that is synonymous with Italian life.

The Coliseum - An architectural marvel, the coliseum was built beginning in 72 A.M. Originally used as a source of entertainment (usually forced barbaric combat) the Coliseum is still an amazing site. Strangely, although it could be considered a source of embarrassment of the past, it has been come to known as one of the ultimate icons of ancient Roman greatness.

Location: the Piazza del Colosseo, Via dei Fori Imperiali, Rome

Vatican City - This tiny country is perhaps one of the most remarkable aspects of Rome. Vatican City is the heart of Catholicism, both spiritually and politically. St. Peter himself was crucified on this spot, and St. Peter’s basilica was built directly above the ancient hill. Both the Basilica and St. Peter’s square are still studied today in architecture and art history classes. You can wander the Vatican Museums for days, including a visit to the Sistine Chapel, to see some of the true masterpieces of Roman art.

Location: Entry through Saint Peter’s Square, Rome

Il Duomo (The Cathedral of Santa Maria Dei Fiori) - Il Duomo is considered by many to be the grandest achievement in Renaissance architecture. The octagonal dome, originally designed by Brunelleschi was the largest in the world when built. Since then, Il Duomo , which took nearly six centuries to complete, has become Florence’s symbol. Climb the 414 steps of the bell tower, and Renaissance Florence will be laid before you.

Location: Piazza del Duomo, Florence.

Piazza San Marco - Piazza San Marco is still studied today by architects and urban planners as one of the most beautiful and successful public squares. The square is surrounded by cafes, shops, and of course the Campanile and St. Peter’s Basilica. Visitors and locals alike sip espresso in its cafes, meet to talk, and climb the Campanile to see an amazing view of Venice.

Location: Piazza San Marco, with the Basilica at the wider end, Venice.

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection - In a city world reknown for its ancient art and architecture, the Guggenheim Collection houses one of the greatest collections of modern art. her collection includes works by Pollack, Picasso, Klee, Rothko, Chagall, Mondrian, and more. There is also a gorgeous sculpture garden housing even more works.

Location: Calle Venice dei Leoni, Dorsoduro, Venice.

The Brion Vega Cemetery - The Brion Vega is considered one of Carlo Scarpa’s masterpieces. Scarpa was and still is often considered the premier modern Italian architect. The memorial is a great concrete and landscaped form if rectilinear, stepping, and sculptural concrete elements. It is an amazing pilgrimage for the architecture buff.

Location: San Vito d’Altivole.

You can wander Italy for ages and never take in all of the art and architecture. Still, the sites listed above are some of the must sees for lovers of art, architecture, and travel. Open your eyes and see the Italian design that has been around for centuries, and that which continues to flourish today.

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Tips For Italy Travel

July 3rd, 2007 at 05:54pm Under Italy

Located in Southern Europe, Italy is a peninsula extending into the central Mediterranean Sea, northeast of Tunisia. When traveling to Italy it is important to remember that you are not at home, so always be respectful and conservative.

WEATHER AND CLOTHING

In general the weather is very hot and steaming in the dead of the summer. We recommend that you wear light clothing. Be sure to have sunglasses, hat and sunblock, as they are essential. Afternoon thunderstorms (brief) are common in Rome and inland cities, so you may want to consider bringing an umbrella. It is essential to follow dress standards (no bare shoulders or knees) and is strictly enforced in many churches, especially in Rome at St. Peter’s and the Vatican Museums and at the Basilica di San Marco in Venice.

SAFETY

Remember to protect yourself against purse-snatchers and pickpockets. It is recommended that you wear a money belt or a pouch on a string around your neck, both concealed. When you have to carry a purse make sure that is around your neck and tucked between your body and arm. A word of caution: “gypsy” children are widespread in Rome, are skilled pickpockets that are quick, and know more tricks than you do.

TELEPHONES

Since hotel tend to overcharge for long distance and international calls. It is best to make such calls from public phones, using telephone cards. For general information in English dial 176. To place international telephone calls via operator assisted service, dial 170 or long distance access numbers. The country code for Italy is 39.

If you are in need of additional information or have found what you are looking for. We suggest that you complete an internet search for additional information.
Have a safe and enjoyable trip to Italy!

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